What do we mean by coastal Morphodynamics?

Definition of Coastal morphodynamics: The mutual interaction of coastal morphology with hydrodynamic agents (tides, currents, waves). This interaction takes place through sedimentation, erosion and sediment transport processes.

What is beach morphology?

Beach morphology is the shape of the beach. A beach sediment profile is the pattern of distribution of different sized or shaped deposited material. Constructive waves alter beach morphology by causing net movement of sediment up the beach, steeping the beach profile.

What do we mean by longshore sediment transport?

Longshore transport refers to the cumulative movement of beach and nearshore sand parallel to the shore by the combined action of tides, wind, and waves and the shore-parallel currents produced by them.

What is coastal hydrodynamics?

Coastal hydrodynamics and morphodynamics studies the circulation of sea water in the proximity of the shoreline, as well as the associated erosive process, sediment transport and any other process that contributes to shaping the morphology of coast and beach.

What are the components of coastal zone?

In general, coastal zones include the splash zone, the high intertidal zone, the low intertidal zone, and the low tide zone. Coastal zones are extremely sensitive to environmental perturbations. The various zones are defined by the physical components within the zone.

Why is beach morphology important?

Many cliff erosion and rocky coast geomorphological studies have considered the role of beach morphology (width, height and volume) in modifying the dissipation of wave energy and the extent of cliff-toe/shore platform protection from erosion (Trenhaile, 1987, 2016; Sunamura, 1992).

What is beach profiling?

Beach profiles Beach profiles use distance and angle measurements to help you investigate the shape of the beach. Follow a straight transect line from the edge of the sea to the end of the active beach.

What is the difference between longshore current and longshore transport?

The main difference between longshore current and longshore drift is that longshore currents are the ocean waves that travel parallel to the beach whereas longshore drift is the transportation of sediments along a coast, parallel to the shoreline.

What causes longshore transport?

Longshore currents are generated when a “train” of waves reach the coastline and release bursts of energy. The speed at which waves approach the shore depends on sea floor and shoreline features and the depth of the water.

What is a hydrodynamic process?

The hydrodynamic conditions or processes, that come about from waves transforming over a coastal profile and generating wave set up and longshore currents, will result in movement and transport of the sediments (e.g. sand) present in the profile.

What is a hydrodynamic model?

Hydrodynamic models are an efficient, comprehensive approach to representing coastal water dynamics. These numerical computational models can be used to simulate currents, water levels, sediment transport and salinity.

What defines a coastal zone?

A coastal zone is the interface between the land and water. These zones are important because a majority of the world’s population inhabit such zones. Coastal zones are continually changing because of the dynamic interaction between the oceans and the land.