What is considered long-period swell?

Swell period is a measure of that acquired momentum and it determines how far a swell will be able to travel in the open ocean. Short-period swell, (11 seconds or less) will usually decay within a few hundred miles, while long-period swell, (above 14 seconds), is capable of far greater journeys.

What does swell mean for waves?

Swell are waves (usually with smooth tops) that have moved beyond the area where they were generated. The distance between the crests, or tops, of the waves that make up swell is usually much greater than the distance between waves being actively generated by wind blowing over the water.

Does bigger swell mean bigger waves?

Simply said the wave period is the amount in seconds that pass between each wave. The higher the wave period, the more energy in the swell and so the larger the wave and more often than not this results in better quality waves for surfing.

Do swells have a longer or shorter wavelength?

Ocean swell waves have longer wavelengths than locally generated wind waves. They typically have small steepness (small ratio of wave height to wavelength).

Why is long-period swell better?

Long-period swells accumulate energy, travel faster, and can easily cope with local winds and currents, resulting in larger surf when it comes to average wave height. Forerunners are the first waves coming in on long-period swells.

What is a good swell?

Swell size If the surf forecast says 1-3m (3-9ft), then it’s usually a good time to go surfing. 3m waves are not appropriate for beginners, but experienced surfers take on waves of incredible height. Under 1 meter, waves are usually more suited to beginner surfers.

What is a good wave period?

10 – 12 Seconds They can often create good quality surf. These swells won’t bend or ‘refract’ into hard to reach surf spots and are less likely to barrel when smaller than longer period swells.

What is a good wave period for boating?

For boaters, long wave periods (e.g., 12 seconds) are better for sailing because it typically means most of the waves will be swells which means a smoother ride for small boats.